December 28, 2007

The New Temporary Workshop Episode 7

I managed to get some primer on the NTW the other day. The temp was in the high 60's. Outside1dec
I am using KILZ brand primer. Great stuff. It works best in the 70's, as in the 60's it has the consistency of sour creme. But then so do all paints.

Inside I have hung the pocket door, which I am going to cut open and install a dog door on the bottom and a piece of tempered glass salvaged from a shower removal. Putting up the NTW, turned the kitchen into a bit of a cave, so I need to get as much light into the house as I can. I am also making the trim on one side of the pocket door frame removable, so when I find or build the door I really want, I can install it.
Shopdoor

For Christmas I received this. Oh yeah! This tops the list of christmas presents for sure. I love stained glass.
Sglass
Now I just have to find the best place to put it. The windows in the casa are dual pane energy efficient units with one big drawback. The damn faux pane dividers inside. These are the standard here in arizona. I'd like to bitch slap the person who thought this was cool. I hated multi pane windows when I had to repair, refinish and paint them. Having them in the center of the window, makes it doubling maddening as replacing dual pane units are more expensive than the window in the first place.

Right now it is in my bathroom in the window.

The forecast calls for high 60's during the first part of the week. I hope so. Then I can get the outside painted, and finish the inside, and move my tools into the workshop. Start building cabinets for my DVD's and books. Then I can move down the hallway and work on getting my office setup, and the media room/movie theater finished.


October 29, 2006

What do you mean it's a different White?

While I am looking for color advice for the walls in my living room, I have made a design choice regarding my ceiling. It is going to be White. I am using Home Depot's BEHR No. 558 Ultra White Ceiling Paint in a flat finish.
Newwhite
As you can see there are many shades of white. Where I have cut in is the Ceiling white. The previous wall and ceiling color was Glidden Professional Finish Ultra Build White, which in my opinion fails on all counts as a rolling paint. It has a gray tinge, it is a thin paint, doesn't roll well, and requires at least 2 coats to cover. May work okay in a spray gun, but I don't use them.

Home Depot's Behr Brand is really great paint. It has good body, lays down well, and when properly applied covers in one coat. I haven't used any other paint since my first can. Worth every cent you pay for it. And a lot of times it goes on sale making it an even better value.
Highly Recommended.

July 18, 2006

Door Painting

In our last episode, we removed the doors and painted the walls. Let's look at the doors and paint them.
The vast majority of interior doors are flat slab hollow core doors. They have 2 sheets of masonite separated by a series of thin bits of wood and a honeycomb of cardboard in the center to keep the two panels from collapsing or booming like a big base drum.

Moving on. One of the things that hardly ever gets done is painting the top and bottom edges of the door. Paint's other job besides creating a serene or energetic environment is to protect the surfaces of what it's applied to.
See? The nail is there to be able to stand the door up after we paint it.
Door2_2
There are a couple of places in your house where this will bite you. The bathroom, kitchen and laundry room. Humidity will swell the wood, and in the case of masonite paneled doors, it looks like this.
House builders buy them prehung, bang them in, the painter sprays them, and everybody goes home. Painters never take them down and paint these edges. Time is money, and builders won't pay to have it done.
This is your house now and you are painting. Let's fix this problem.
Over time the bottom of the door swells, and the paint will peel. You can see this on the right side of this photo. The peeling on this particular door was due to the builder buying un-primered doors. Cheaper, and the painter didn't prime before he painted. I see this crap a lot.

When I took the doors down, I marked the bottom. I had a garage and a couple of saw horses to set the doors on. You may be only doing one door. In any case, remove the knob and striker from the door, and put it in the ZipLock bag in the room that you got it from. This is why you need a gallon bag and not a quart size.
Door1_1

When you get back, take a piece of tape and write on it, what door it is and place it in the hole you took the knob from.

Door4
Now that you have the door off, you can do any sanding and patching that needs to be done. Here I have taken a sander and sanded down the swelling from the masonite. I have also put two nails in the bottom of the door. I also put a nail in the top of the door and bent it 90 degrees. This is so that I can stand it up and not ruin the paint while it is drying, and the nail on the top allows me to place it on a wall, and not have the top of the door stick to the wall. Put a coat of paint on the top and bottom being careful not to paint the face of the door. We will roll that.

After patching, sanding, and painting the top and bottom, there is one area we want to paint before we roll the door. We want to paint the hinges with a brush across the hinge and the hinge pocket. We also want to cut in the front of the hinge where it is inset into the face of the door, because this is a pain to do it after. Here is the door with your sticker letting you know where it goes.
Door3_1

After you have rolled the door, you can stand it up against a wall, and paint the rest of the hinge edge, and the knob edge. Since it is off the floor and away from the wall, you should have no problem painting these. Tomorrow is soon enough to paint the top and bottom edges again and roll the other side.

Painting Tips

Okay, first you need to get a 1 gallon ZipLock Plastic bag for every room you are going to paint.
This is where the screws, coverplates, door knobs and anything else, like towel bars and toilet holders are going to rest while you paint.

If it has been a long time between paint jobs or you are a smoker, you are going to want to wash your walls. Assuming that is done, take your screwdriver and remove all of the electrical coverplates and put them in the ziplock bag. Take a piece of tape and cover the outlets, switches, cable plugs, phone, etc.

Remove the doors. Close the door, drive the hinge pins up and out, place them in the bag, Get the door out of the room. This does two important things, You will be able to paint that spot behind the hinge on the jamb, and you will be able to paint the jamb without obstruction.

Take your roll of 2'' painters tape, and tape off the baseboards at the floor or carpet. So your floor looks like this.
Paint1
Here is the deal with painters tape. Yes it costs more. It's not just the color. Painters tape is sold in a number of times, hours or days. The theory is that the adhesive unsticks itself after a certain time, and does not leave adhesive residue on whatever you taped. I know from experience that it doesn't leave residue, I can't say about the time as I never leave it on that long. It also sticks to carpet real well which regular beige masking tape doesn't. It is worth the money.

I use 3M Scotch Blue, myself. I use 2'' tape as it is wide enough to catch the roller oops if you stop paying attention to what you are doing, or there is something real interesting going on outside.

Here is a photo of a door jamb and the wall with the tape masking off the floor and carpet. I use drop cloths, as I want to get the walls painted and not have to scrape or soak spills out of carpets.
Paint2


Here is a photo showing the outlet covered with tape and a serious cut in job. Notice that I have brushed the area between the outlet and the floor. This is so when you roll, you will not have runners or skips in your paint job as you roll.
Paint3

If you are painting with latex, get a 3'' 100% nylon sash and trim brush. (oil base, China Bristle) It is the angled type. You want a 3'' brush so that your cut-in (which is the part where you paint the inside corners , trim and around your outlets, where your roller won't go)
The other reason is that your standard roller is 2'' in diameter, which means the closest you will get to the wall is one inch. When you cut in, we want you to have beautiful walls. The 3'' brush allows you to have a generous safe zone to blend the roller and brush work.
You will be suprised how much that ceiling will jump at your roller, if you make your cut in smaller.

What your mission is, is to have a sufficent amount of paint in the corner and a large enough area to blend the paint you apply with the roller, to get a seamless paintjob. The best way of doing this is after applying the paint with the brush, we feather the paint edge with our brush. Remember to brush into your work as you go, so that you don't have big ugly brush marks on your trim or corners. Since the tips of the brush are on an angle, we want to make our final brush strokes perpendicular to the wall to feather the edge. That looks like this:

Paint4

So you don't think I am a slave driver, your paint and brush will tell you when it is time to take a break. You can see here that the paint is drying up the brush and the bristles are clumping together leaving voids which will show up on your walls as gaps. Your friends will laugh. You will cry.
Paint5
Depending on temperature, humidity and your ability, this will take around 2 hours give or take. You will notice that only the bottom half of the brush has been dipped. Don't try to dunk the brush under the delusion that you will get more paint on the wall faster, you won't. You will have a mess.
Paint6

One of the indispensible tools for cleaning brushes is a brush comb. At the paint stores these are pricey items. Go to the pet store and pick the same item with a different brand name for a whole lot less. This is a Hartz dog comb. Besides after buying Good Paint, a Good Brush, and Painters Tape, you will want to save where you can:)

When you clean your brush, use warm water, a bit of soap and the palm of your hand. Wiggle the brush in the palm of your hand, under the water, until the paint is gone. Use the comb to remove the bits of dried paint that will be sticking to the outside of the brush. Repeat until your brush is clean, as clean as it was when you took it out of the cardboard sleeve it came in.
Don't buy cheap brushes or variety packs. The bristles will fall out, the brush will get gummy and your job will look like crap. If you buy a good brush and take care of it, you will only need to buy one, and can give it to your heirs.

When you are done cutting in, your walls should look like this. No it only looks like you painted half the room. One of the things that I do, your mileage will vary is to cut the outside corners as well. This will help eliminate the paint runs from the roller going over the edge.
Paint7
Take your time, you can do this and produce a professional job in the privacy of your own home.

Things

  • note
  • Video Wish List
  • where desire exceeds income
    My Amazon.com Wish List
  • search

Drywall Patch

  • Second Coat
    This is a guide to patch holes that appear in drywall yourself.

Smoothwall

  • Smoothwall32
    This is a tutorial on refinishing walls. Specifically it is about making walls smooth, which is a result of moving into a house that has 'textured' walls.

Taping

  • Painting
    This is a short tutorial on Taping Drywall for the folks who want to tackle remodeling projects that involve drywall.