remodeling for geeks

The Walk In Closet Project Episode 8

In our last episode we had attached the cabinets to the wall and built the bases for the closets. Concrete floors are rarely level. From bad construction to aging, over time the earth moves and affects concrete floors. In most cases you are building a base to put cabinets or other things that for the most part are square, and level. If you don't it to move, here is one method to achieve that.
The technique to bolting down a base assembly is straightforward.

You need two levels, shims, A34 strong ties, blue screws, and drywall screws. You need to find the high spot and work out from there. You need a long level for your front edge, and the short level for front to back.
Once you have a high point, you shim away from it, and checking your levels, place your anchors. In this case I am using A34 Simpson Strong Tie anchors.

Using this anchoring system is relatively inexpensive, and quick. Place the anchor on the floor and use a couple of drywall screws to fasten it to your 2x4''. Then use the Tapcon Tool to drill the hole in the concrete, to attach the base flange to the floor with the blue screw. (You really need a hammer drill for doing this, so it doesn't take a long time or burn out the bit)

Depending on the load, I usually place them every 32-48'' apart. Being that this is a closet with rods, 48'' is close enough to anchor the base.

If you are doing a lot of attachment to concrete, buying the Tapcon Condrive tool is the way to go. Has all the parts you need. You can buy replacement drill bits, and if you buy the blue screws by the hundred, they throw in a bit.

Drywall Fasteners - Screws of Our Lives - The Steel Ones

Steel Studs aka Light Guage Metal Framing is an alternative to wood framing. It has it's place. Steel Studs use different screws.
From left to right are Trimheads, Panheads, and Self Tapping Type S screws.

Trim heads as the illustration shows have a much smaller head, (use a #1 Phillips Bit) and are made for attaching trims through drywall into steel studs.
Pan heads are the 16d fasteners of steel stud framing. These are used to screw the steel framing together.
Self Tapping Type S screws are used for attaching the drywall to the steel stud frames. Here is a comparison of head size.

When working with steel studs, you want the fastest spinning screw gun you can find. You have to get through the drywall and the steel and cinch it up tight befor the screw tries to wobble and walk on you, leaving you with a large ragged hole that won't hold, is a PITA of fill and coat, and generally make your project a splinter in your mind rather than an endorphin buzz that you can share.

The previous posting showed Type S screws that are pointed, and are more widely available at your local home store, and perfectly acceptable for light gauge (25 ga.) steel stud framing. I showed the self tapper to illustrate the different types available. Medium Gauge (20) and Red Iron Steel Framing use self tappers exclusively, and unless you are building an entire house out of it, will probably not need to be in your hardware box.

Drywall Fasteners - Screws of Our Lives - The Wood Ones

Drywall Screws are Different. They are Black, Harder than Regular Screws, have a specific shape and different types. The are often called Bugle Head, due to the shape of the head which is radius to deform the paper and the gypsum core with out tearing the paper. as I mentioned in the post about the Screwgun The black color is an anti rust coating. The points are sharp!

These are the most common ones for home use.
Type 'W' or Wood Screws have a coarse thread for driving into wood.
Type 'S' or Steel Screws have a fine thread and although made for attaching drywall to steel studs are used interchangeably.
Given a choice, use the wood ones around the house.

---

The standard size you will probably use are 1 1/4" for attaching 1/2" drywall to studs, and 1 3/8" for attaching 5/8" drywall to studs. This provides 1/2" penetration into the stud, which is the recommended code attachment. You can use a little longer screw, but it is not necessary.

They are not limited to drywall. You can use them to screw all sorts of stuff together. Temporary or permanently.

However.... There are a couple of areas where they should not be used. If you look at the photo, you will see that the thread comes up to the base of the head, and because of the thinness of the shaft,and the hardness of the screw, they do not have the strength to resist side shear like a regular wood screw.

Do not use them as hinge screws! Do not use them as Hanger Screws! When they snap, and they will, you will cry, because they will resist every attempt to remove them, short of dismantling what they broke off in, and replacing it. You will cry like a baby.